Part 1 Part 2 Part 3a Part 3b

 

Classic Storage Chest

Follow our Shop Class videos to create your own storage chest. Stop at one point for a basic model or continue on for a traditional style.


 

 

 

Good to know:

Use the video playlist above to navigate through this project's steps.

Cut and label the parts as needed, using the Cut List and Cutting Diagram as guides and adjusting for fit.

Download Diagram Download Cutlist

 

 

 

1 Create the end and side assemblies.

End and Side Assemblies

Note: The parts in this step are ripped from 1 x 3s and 1 x 2s.
a. Use the (01) bottom end rail layout in Figure 1 to measure and mark the (01) bottom end rails. Use a flexible metal ruler or piece of lath moulding to create the arc.

b. Use the (02) end stile layout in Figure 1 to measure and mark the (02) end stiles. Cut the first one, and use it as a template for the remaining (02) end stiles.

c. Position the (01) bottom end rails and (03) top end rails as shown in Figure 1, and attach to the (02) end stiles using glue and pocket hole screws.

d. Use the (04) front top rail layout in Figure 2 to create the (04) front top rail.

e. Use the (05) front bottom rail/(06) back bottom rail layout to create the (05) front bottom rail and (06) back bottom rail. Tip: Use the scrap leftover from ripping the (02) end stiles to lay out the arc. Cut the (05) front bottom rail, and use it as a template for the (06) back bottom rail.

f. Use the (07) front stile/(08) back stile layout to create the (07) front stiles and (08) back stiles. Cut one (07) front stile, and use it as a template for the remaining stiles.

g. Scribe a centerline across both faces of the (04) front top rail, (05) front bottom rail, (06) back bottom rail and (09) back top rail.

h. Scribe a centerline on the faces at the two ends of the (10) center stiles.

i. Position one (10) center stile aligned with the centerlines on the (04) front top rail and (05) front bottom rail as shown in Figure 2. Attach the (10) center rail using glue and pocket hole screws.

j. Position the (04) front top rail and (05) front bottom rail as shown in Figure 2, and attach to the (07) front stiles using glue and pocket hole screws.

k. Position the second (10) center rail aligned with the centerlines on the (06) back bottom rail and (09) back top rail as shown in Figure 2. Attach the (10) center rail using glue and pocket hole screws.

l. Position the (06) back bottom rail and (09) back top rail as shown in Figure 2, and attach to the (08) back stiles using glue and pocket hole screws.

 

 


 

2 Attach the assemblies and interior parts.

Attach Assembliesa. Position the edges of the (02) end stiles flush with the edges of the (08) back stiles as shown in Figure 3, and attach using glue and 4d nails. Use corner clamps if needed to hold the assemblies in place while nailing.

b. Position the edges of the (02) end stiles flush with the edges of the (07) front stiles, and attach using glue and 4d nails.

c. Check for square by measuring diagonally across the top of the assembly. If the measurements are the same, the assembly is square. If not, you’ll need to attach temporary bracing from scrap wood to achieve square. To do this, position the assembly against a stationary object and apply pressure on one corner until the diagonal measurements are the same. Hold this position, and place a piece of scrap wood diagonally across the inside corner of the assembly and attach it to the top edges of the (09) back top rail and (03) top end rail using wire brads. Measure again, and if it is still out of square, repeat the process on the corner that is diagonal from the first corner. Now measure the interior depth at the bottom of the rails to confirm the measurement for the (11) cleats.

d. Scribe a centerline on the faces at the two ends of one (11) cleat.

e. Position this (11) cleat aligned with the centerlines on the (05) front bottom rail and (06) back bottom rail and 1/8 inch below the top edges of the (05) front bottom rail and (06) back bottom rail. Attach using glue and pocket hole screws.

f. Position the outer (11) cleats flush against the end assemblies and 1/8 inch below the top edges of the (01) bottom end rails, (05) front bottom rail, and (06) back bottom rail. Attach using glue and pocket hole screws on the ends and glue and 4d nails on the edges positioned against the (01) bottom end rails.

g. Insert the (12) sides into the assembly, better side facing out and flush against the (11) cleats and rails and stiles of the assembly as shown in Figure 4. Attach using glue and #17 x 1-inch brads.

h. Insert the (13) ends into the assembly, better side facing out and flush against the (12) sides and rails and stiles of the assembly. Attach using glue and #17 x 1-inch brads.

i. Insert the (14) bottom into the assembly, flush against the (11) cleats, and attach using glue and #17 x 1-inch brads.

j. Remove the temporary bracing.

 

3 Add the trim and top, and apply a finish.

Add Top and Hingea. Scribe and miter cut to fit the (15) side trim and (16) end trim, and attach to the top edges of the (12) sides and (13) ends using glue and #18 x 3/4-inch brads as shown in Figure 5.

b. Position the (17) top on a flat work surface, scribe and miter cut to fit the (18) long nosing and (19) short nosing, and attach to the (17) top using glue and 4d nails.

c. Position the (20) hinge filler centered and 1/8 inch below the top outside edge of the (09) back top rail, and attach using glue and #18 x 1 1/4-inch wire brads.

d. Fill all holes on the body and top assemblies, sand, and apply the desired finish.

e. Measure and cut the continuous hinge to 32 inches long using a hacksaw; file the ends smooth.

f. Attach the continuous hinge to the top assembly and (20) hinge filler using the included screws. Use a self-centering drill bit when predrilling the holes for the screws.

g. Attach a lid support to each end of the top assembly and to the end assemblies following the manufacturer’s directions.

NOTE: The basic storage chest construction is complete at this point. The following directions are additional details to create a faux raised panel for a more traditional look.

h. Cut the (21) side panels per the Cut List, and test-fit centered on the (12) sides.

i. Cut the (22) end panels per the Cut List, and test-fit centered on the (13) ends.

j. Scribe and miter cut to fit the (23) long side trim and (24) short side trim so that the trim fits the outer perimeter of the openings on the (12) sides. Cut to fit the (21) side panels as needed.

k. Attach the trim pieces to the (12) sides using glue and #18 x 3/4-inch wire brads, and attach the (21) side panels using glue and #17 x 1-inch wire brads.

l. Scribe and miter cut to fit the (25) short end trim and (26) long end trim so that the trim fits the outer perimeter of the openings on the (13) ends. Cut to fit the (22) end panels as needed.

m. Attach the trim pieces to the (13) ends using glue and #18 x 3/4-inch wire brads, and attach the (22) end panels using glue and #17 x 1-inch wire brads.

4 Apply finishing touches

a. Fill all nail holes and pocket holes, sand, and apply the desired finish. If painting, prime and paint. If staining, apply the desired stain, one coat of polyurethane, sand, another coat of polyurethane, and one coat of paste wax.

 

Cut List

#

Part Name

Qty.

Material

Size (inches)

01 bottom end rails 2 1 x 3 3/4 x 2 x 13 1/2
02 end stiles 4 1 x 2 3/4 x 1 1/4 x 17 1/4
03 top end rails 2 1 x 3 3/4 x 2 x 13 1/2
04 front top rail 1 1 x 3 3/4 x 2 x 31
05 front bottom rail 1 1 x 3 3/4 x 2 x 31
06 back bottom rail 1 1 x 3 3/4 x 2 x 31
07 front stiles 2 1 x 3 3/4 x 2 x 17 1/4
08 back stiles 2 1 x 3 3/4 x 2 x 17 1/4
09 back top rail 1 1 x 3 3/4 x 2 x 31
10 center stiles 2 1 x 3 3/4 x 2 x 11
11 cleats 3 1 x 3 3/4 x 2 x 16
12 sides 2 1/2" plywood 1/2 x 11 3/8 x 33 1/2
13 ends 2 1/2" plywood 1/2 x 11 3/8 x 15
14 bottom 1 1/2" plywood 1/2 x 15 x 32 1/2
15 side trim 2 quarter round 1/2 x 1/2 x 33 1/2
16 end trim 2 quarter round 1/2 x 1/2 x 16
17 top 1 3/4" plywood 3/4 x 17 1/2 x 35
18 long nosing 2 1 x 2 3/4 x 3/4 x 36 1/2
19 short nosing 2 1 x 2 3/4 x 3/4 x 19
20 hinge filler 1 1 x 2 5/8 x 3/4 x 32
21 side panels 4 1 x 12 3/4 x 7 3/4 x 11 1/4
22 end panels 2 1 x 12 3/4 x 7 3/4 x 10 1/4
23 long side trim 8 drip cap 11/16 x 1 5/8 x 14 1/2
24 short side trim 8 drip cap 11/16 x 1 5/8 x 11
25 short end trim 4 drip cap 11/16 x 1 5/8 x 11
26 long end trim 4 drip cap 11/16 x 1 5/8 x 13 1/2

Finished Dimensions:
Height: 18 inches
Depth: 19 inches
Width: 36 1/2 inches

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Shop Class

 

 

Project Details
Tools You'll Use
  • table saw (or circular saw with a straightedge guide)
  • miter saw (or handsaw with miter box)
  • jigsaw (or band saw)
  • pneumatic nailer (or hammer with nail set)
  • drill/driver with a self-centering bit
  • power sander and various grits of sandpaper
  • Kreg Jig K4
  • hacksaw
  • metal file
  • compass
  • flexible metal ruler
  • corner clamps
  • tape measure
  • paintbrush/rags
  • pencil
Lowe’s List
Skill level: Intermediate
Lumber*
  • 2 boards, 1 x 2 x 8
  • 1 board, 1 x 3 x 6
  • 3 boards, 1 x 3 x 8
  • 1 board, 1 x 12 x 4**
  • 1 sheet of plywood, 1/2-inch x 4- x 4-foot
  • 1 sheet of plywood, 3/4-inch x 2- x 4-foot
  • 2 pieces of quarter-round moulding, 1/2-inch x 1/2-inch x 8-foot
  • 4 pieces of drip cap moulding, 11/16- x 1 5/8-inch x 8-foot**
Hardware & Supplies
  • 1 box of (1 1/4-inch) pocket hole screws, coarse thread for softwoods (pine), fine thread for hardwoods (oak)
  • 1 box of 4d nails
  • 1 box of #17 x 1-inch wire brads
  • 1 box #18 x 1 1/4-inch wire brads
  • 1 box of #18 x 3/4-inch wire brads
  • 1 (48-inch) continuous hinge
  • 2 lid supports
  • wood glue (Titebond II)
  • paintable wood filler (PL)
  • 1 quart of primer (Valspar)***
  • 1 quart of paint (Valspar Ultra Premium, Coastal Villa, 6005-2A, semi-gloss)***
  • 1 quart of stain (Cabot, Gunstock)****
  • 1 quart of polyurethane (Cabot)****
  • 1 can of paste wax****

*Availability varies by market.
**Optional for adding faux raised panel details on traditional version.
***For painted version.
****For stained version.

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