Hunky Entry Catch-all
This hunky, hold-everything entry catch-all features roomy, easy-to-clean drawers for storing shoes and an adjustable tray for gloves, sunglasses, and umbrellas. Handle cutouts give it a graphic look and allow for good air circulation, which helps to dry wet shoes.
Project Resources:
Cut and label the parts as needed, using the Cut List and Cutting Diagram as guides and adjusting for fit.
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Heavy-duty paint trays sit inside three roomy drawers and can be removed for easy cleaning.
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The top drawer features a beechwood tray that you can adjust to fit all your storage needs.
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Instructions
1. Cut the case pieces
Good to Know:
If you don’t already own assembly clamps similar in purpose to the right-angle clamp jig shown in illustration #2, take a few minutes to make two or more pairs from ¾” scrap plywood. They will make your joinery more accurate and easier to assemble.
Using the Materials and Cutting List and diagram (PDF), cut the sides (A), top and bottom (B) and back (C) from ¾” medium density fiberboard (MDF) to the sizes listed. Label the pieces with chalk and set the pieces aside.
Good to Know:
To make your trip home easier, ask a Lowe’s associate to cut your 4x8 panel to size with a panel saw. Each store’s saw station is generally located near the sheet goods (plywood) in the lumber department. The first two cuts are free; additional cuts are 25 cents each. Some locations now sell 4x8’ MDF as 49x97”.
From the 4”-wide poplar, rip the hardwood to 2½” wide. Then crosscut the feet pieces (D, E, F, and G) to the finished lengths. Set the pieces aside.
Refer to the Cutting diagram (PDF) to cut the drawer fronts/backs (H), sides (I), bottoms (J), top drawer false front (K), Lower drawers false front (L), for the four drawers. Label the pieces with chalk and set the pieces aside.
Set up your dado blade to cut a ¾” rabbet ¼” deep. Now, cut rabbets in the sides (A), top/bottom (B), drawer fronts/backs (H), and drawer sides (I).
Photocopy four copies of the Drawer Handle Cutout Full-Size Pattern (PDF), two copies of the Top Drawer Corner Full-Size Pattern, and two copies of the Front Foot Full-Sized Pattern.
Using repositionable spray adhesive, adhere the full-sized patterns to the appropriate pieces (or use the pattern as a template to draw directly on wood). Align the top edge of the pattern with the top edge of each piece. Cut the pieces with a bandsaw or jigsaw. Cut just outside the pattern lines, then sand the edges to the lines. If you sand by hand, wrap sandpaper around a 3/4”-diameter dowel to improve your efficiency. Smooth with 80-grit sandpaper, switch to 120-grit sandpaper and sand smooth. Remove the patterns.
With a square and straightedge, center and mark the opening in the back. Drill 1/2” start holes in each corner. Then cut the opening in the back with a jigsaw.
2. Assemble the frame
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Good to Know:
If you don’t already own assembly clamps similar in purpose to the right-angle clamp jig shown, take a few minutes to make at two or more pairs from ¾” scrap plywood. They will make your joinery more accurate and easier to assemble.
Clamp the side (A) and bottom (B) as shown and assemble the first joint. Test the countersink depth in scrap material (the #8x2” screw should be slightly below the MDF surface), then countersink four screws. Remove the screws and clamps, apply glue, and reassemble. Repeat for all four joints.
Good to Know:
For about a $40 investment (Kreg jig; 205289), you can use pocket-hole joinery to assemble this and other woodworking projects. In addition to speed and accuracy, there are three advantages to this type of joinery: the screw pockets are generally hidden on the inside of the case, screws are matched for the material, and mechanical strength means you can assemble without glue.
For a video of the process, see: “How to Use A Pocket Hole Jig”

Test-fit the back (C) in the rabbeted opening. Drill countersunk holes as explained earlier. Remove the back, apply glue, and drive the screws home.
3. Attach the feet
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Attach the front and rear feet supports (E, F) with glue and #8x1 ¼” screws as dimensioned in Step 3. (Use a combination square to help position the supports 11/4” from the front, back, and sides. The attached feet will be 1/2” from the front, back, and sides). Then, glue and screw the feet (D) and front feet (F).
4. Assemble the drawers
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Assemble the drawers, using the Step 4 drawing. Elevate the drawer box on a piece of 1/8”-thick material, then attach the drawer front.
Follow the instructions packaged with the drawer slides. First identify the slide members by the code stamped on each piece. Right and left are referenced from your viewpoint facing the case and the drawer front:
- CL= Cabinet member, left-hand
- CR= Cabinet member, right-hand
- DL= Drawer member, left-hand
- DR= Drawer member, right-hand
Mount each drawer member flush with the bottom of each drawer box. Use the Side Section View Drawer Glide Location Drawing to position the drawer slides on the inside of the cabinet. Test the fit of each drawer and the action of the drawer glide; reposition if necessary.
Good to Know:
For smooth operation, each pair of drawer slides must be parallel to each other and square to the front of the case and drawer front. Take your time to carefully measure the position of each slide member.
5. Sand and Finish
Fill the screw hole and any other voids with a wood putty. Sand the surfaces with 120-grit sandpaper. Mask the drawer box (front/back, sides, and bottom) with blue painter’s tape. Apply a coat of primer and then a finish coat as recommended. Remove tape when dry.
Place a plastic paint tray in each of the three lower drawers. Place an expandable cutlery tray in the top drawer.
Good to Know:
MDF offers a good smooth, paintable surface; however, it is quite heavy. You can use plywood or solid wood instead and paint or stain it to your preferred finish