Cottage Classic: Kitchen Island

General Instructions

Cut and label the parts as needed, using the Cut List as a guide and adjusting for fit.

Step-by-Step

Build the face frames (see Figure 1).
- Cut the (01) stiles, (02) mid stiles, and (03) rails for the front and back face frames.
- Using the dimensions shown in Figure 1, assemble the pieces using glue and pocket hole screws. Drill additional pocket holes along the (03) rails for attaching the butcher-block top during final assembly.
- Cut the (04) end stiles and (05) end rails for the end face frames.
- Assemble the end face frames using glue and pocket hole screws using the dimensions shown in Figure 1.
Construct the basic case (see Figure 2).
- Attach the front and back face frames to the end face frames using glue and 6d nails.
- Measure the opening between the front and back face frames, and measure the opening between the end frames. Cut the (06) floor from 3/4-inch plywood to fit.
- Using glue and 6d nails, attach the (06) floor to the face frames; the top of the (06) floor should be flush with the upper edge of the lower (03) rail and the lower (05) end rail.
- Measure and then cut to fit the (07) drawer supports. The supports should match the width of the floor and flush with the top of the upper (03) rails.
- Cut a rabbet along the back edge of the (07) drawer supports 3/8-inch wide and equal to the thickness (approximately 1/4-inch deep) of the beaded-board back panel to be added later. Test-fit the (07) drawer supports.
- Lay out the drawer locations, and attach the portion of the drawer slides to the (07) drawer supports at this time. (It's easier to lay out and attach the slides when working on a flat work surface.)
- Attach the (07) drawer supports, flush with the inside edges of the (02) mid stiles, to the front and back face frames and the (06) floor using glue and 6d nails.
- Turn the case upside down, and attach the (08) leg blocks to the back of the (01) stiles. Drill pilot holes, and attach the furniture glides, centered on the (08) leg blocks.
Finish the case construction (see Figure 3).
- Cut the (09) beaded panels to fit between the (07) drawer supports and the end face frames. The length of the (09) beaded panels should match the length of the (07) drawer supports.
- Attach the (09) beaded panels to the face frames using glue and wire brads.
- Cut the (10) back panel to 1/16 inch less than the width between the bottoms of the rabbets in the (07) drawer supports.
- Apply glue inside the rabbets, and lower the (10) back panel into place.
- Cut the (11) shelf supports to the same dimension as the (09) beaded panels.
- Drill 1/4-inch holes 1/2-inch deep in the (11) shelf supports, per the shelf support detail in Figure 3.
- Attach the (11) shelf supports to the face frames and the (09) beaded panels using glue and 6d nails.
Build the shelves (see Figure 4).
- Cut the (12) shelf boards 3/8 inch less than the width of the opening for the shelves and 7/8 inch less than the width of the (11) shelf supports.
- Cut the (13) shelf nose the same length as the (12) shelf boards. Attach the (13) shelf nose to the (12) shelf boards using glue and 4d nails.
- Attach the (14) shelf edging to the (13) shelf nose, centered on the length and flush with the top, using glue and 4d nails.
Note: The length of the (14) shelf edging should be 3/8 inch less than the width of the opening of the end face frame.
Build the drawers (see Figure 5).
Note: For this project we used "graduated" drawers. The smallest drawer is at the top, and each drawer is larger as it gets closer to the bottom. The first drawer box, labeled box (A), is 2 1/2-inches deep. The second, box (B), and the third, box (C), are 3 1/2-inches deep. Boxes (D) and (E) are 5 1/2-inches deep. Also, note that the heights of the drawer faces are different sizes for all five drawers.
- For each drawer box, prepare the drawer sides and the drawer ends by cutting a 1/4- x 1/4-inch rabbet along one edge of each piece. Sand the parts smooth before assembly.
- Assemble each drawer box by attaching the drawer sides to the drawer ends, with the ends between the sides, using glue and 4d nails. Remove any excess glue.
- Cut the 1/4-inch plywood for the (21) drawer bottoms to fit into the rabbets. Sand the plywood before assembly.
- Attach the (21) drawer bottoms to each drawer box using glue and wire brads.
- At this time, apply several coats of wipe-on polyurethane to the drawer boxes.
- Once dry, attach the drawer slides to the drawer boxes per the manufacturer's instructions. Insert the drawer boxes into the case.
- From remaining scrap wood, cut 16 to 20 shims 1/16-inch thick, 3/4-inch wide, and 1 1/2-inches long.
- Place the island on its back.
- Starting with (22) drawer face (A), cut the drawer faces 1/8 inch less than the width of the opening in the face frame.
- Place the (22) drawer face (A) on the front of drawer box (A). Use the 1/16-inch shims to keep the reveal equal around the edges and the adjacent drawer face. Tape the shims and the drawer face in place. Repeat this process for drawer faces (B), (C), and (D).
- Check the dimension for (26) drawer face (E). The vertical dimension will be 1/8 inch less than the opening. Cut, shim, and tape the (26) drawer face (E) in place.
- Return the island to the upright position. Working from drawer box (A), attach the drawer faces to the drawer boxes using 1-inch pan-head screws through the front of the drawer boxes into the back of the drawer faces. Do not glue the faces to the drawer boxes. Remove each drawer as you access the next drawer.
- Cut and attach the (27) drawer face moulding to the perimeter of each drawer face using glue and 4d nails.
- Remove and label the drawer faces, paint, and allow to dry.
Build the skirt.
- Scribe and miter cut to length the (28) long skirts. Label each one for its corresponding location.
- See the skirt board detail. On a flat work surface, align the (28) long skirts together with bottom edges touching. Clamp them together. Measure and mark along the bottom edge of the boards, 6 inches from each end for the center of the 1 1/2-inch hole.
- Using a Forstner bit, drill a hole at each mark so that there's half of the hole in each board. Scribe from apex to apex of each hole, and use a jigsaw to remove the waste (as shown in the skirt board detail).
- Repeat steps 6a through 6c for the (29) end skirts.
- Using glue and 4d nails, attach the skirts to the face frames, flushing the bottom of each skirt with the (01) stiles.
- Apply the (30) skirt moulding to the top edges of the skirts using glue and brads.
Finish the island.
- Apply moulding to the perimeter of all beaded-board panels using glue and 4d nails.
- Fill all nail holes. Sand, and then prime. Allow to dry.
- Sand the primer, and apply two coats of paint. Allow to dry.
- Reattach the drawer faces to the drawer boxes.
- Insert the shelf pins at the desired heights, and install the shelves.
- Cut and attach the (33) butcher-block top using pocket hole screws.

Good To Know

Protect your butcher-block countertops with a food-safe oil and finish (Watco, #43860) found in the paint department. Just wipe it on, and allow to dry.

Cut List

Part	Material	Size (in inches)	Quantity
Face Frames
stiles	1 x 6	3/4 x 2 1/4 x 33 1/2	4
mid stiles	1 x 6	3/4 x 2 1/4 x 25	4
rails	1 x 6	3/4 x 2 1/4 x 43 1/2	4
end stiles	1 x 6	3/4 x 1 1/2 x 29 1/2	4
end rails	1 x 6	3/4 x 2 1/4 x 19 1/2	4
Case
floor	24- x 48-inch (3/4-inch) plywood	3/4 x 21 x 46 1/2	1
drawer supports	48- x 96-inch (3/4-inch) plywood	3/4 x 21 x 27 1/4	2
leg blocks	2 x 2	1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 4	4
beaded panels	beaded-board paneling	1/4 x 12 3/4 x 27 1/4	4
back panel	beaded-board paneling	1/4 x 20 x 27 1/4	1
shelf supports	48- x 96-inch (3/4-inch) plywood	3/4 x 12 3/4 x 27 1/4	4
Shelves
shelf boards	48- x 96-inch (3/4-inch) plywood	3/4 x 11 3/4 x 18 7/8	2
shelf nose	1 x 6	3/4 x 1 1/2 x 18 7/8	2
shelf edging	base-cap moulding	11/16 x 1 1/8 x 17 5/8	2
Drawers
drawer sides (A)	1/4-inch plywood	1/2 x 3 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 20	2
drawer sides (B and C)	1/4-inch plywood	1/2 x 4 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 20	4
drawer sides (D and E)	1/4-inch plywood	1/2 x 6 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 20	4
drawer ends (A)	1/4-inch plywood	1/2 x 3 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 17 1/2	2
drawer ends (B and C)	1/4-inch plywood	1/2 x 4 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 17 1/2	4
drawer ends (D and E)	1/4-inch plywood	1/2 x 6 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 17 1/2	4
drawer bottoms (A, B, C, D, and E)	1/4-inch plywood	1/4 x 18 1/2 x 19 1/2	5
drawer face (A)	1 x 8	3/4 x 2 7/8 x 19 3/8	1
drawer face (B)	1 x 8	3/4 x 3 7/8 x 19 3/8	1
drawer face (C)	1 x 8	3/4 x 4 7/8 x 19 3/8	1
drawer face (D)	1 x 8	3/4 x 5 7/8 x 19 3/8	1
drawer face (E)	1 x 8	3/4 x 6 7/8 x 19 3/8	1
drawer face moulding	base-cap moulding	11/16 x 1 1/8 x cut to fit	1
Decorative Skirt
long skirts	1 x 6	3/4 x 5 1/4 x 49 1/2*	2
end skirts	1 x 6	3/4 x 5 1/4 x 24*	2
skirt moulding	quarter-round moulding	cut to fit	4
Moulding
beaded panel moulding	base-cap moulding	11/16 x 1 1/8 x cut to fit	1
back panel moulding	base-cap moulding	11/16 x 1 1/8 x cut to fit	1
Top
butcher-block top	butcher block	2 1/4 x 25 1/2 x 49 1/2	1
*Denotes long point to long point.

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